Footloose in Carolina
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Mellowed Old Beaufort
By wili-ari» Lii:
BEAUFORT. N. C l don't know
what there i * about old. well-
seasoned towns which makes them so
easy to feel at home in Old towns
like old shoes, arc restful things, es¬
pecially if the towns arc off the beaten
paths and aren’t too filled with rush
and bustle.
Morchcad City. Beaufort’s twin from
which I had come by bridge and cause¬
way across the Newport River, bears
the look of a new-made place, which
a goodly part of it must be. Morchcad
boomed in the war days, because the
new railhead is there.
But Beaufort -over-the-bndge seems
to have gone its accustomed way: it is
mellowed, and shows its age. And as
I strolled its streets I kept thinking
how New England-looking were so
many of its houses — until I'd come
upon some with galleries along their
fronts, which weren't New English at
all: and until I noticed that the live
oak trees still were green in the mild
winter chill.
* * •
“Shirt-sleeve weather," a local man
called it, hut I was quite content in my
topcoat.
* * ♦
Beaufort — which calls itself Bo-
fert. whereas Beaufort in South Caro¬
lina is b-you-fert. rhyming with
Viewfert — Beaufort’s name was
Fishtown until it took on that of a
Noble Duke in the early 1700’s; and
though it b now a resort-town and a
trading center, it is still a fivhing place.
Late in the afternoon, when an
orange sun bathed the sea and shore
in its waning warmth. I stood on one
of the docks which altogether cover
only a block or two of the waterside.
The little city lies on an inner harbor
of broad Beaufort Inlet, which cuts
through the sheltering Outer Bank of
long sandy islands.
Off in the inlet — upon which, from
Boguc Bank, restored Fort Macon,
looks out from ils antique walls — out
there I saw a strange sight; a hinting,
it seemed, of all the little fishing boats
of the menhaden fleet, dozens of them,
each with a crow’s-nest lookout
perched at its mast-top. and all gather¬
ing and moving in solemn procession.
• • •
Thev came streaming in through the
channel of the inlet . . . vessel after
vessel, interminably; swinging in the
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passage around the islet of Town
Marsh and coming on towards the cify.
Some must have turned off to More-
head; others swung away when they
were close to me. passing from sight
on my right. I could hear them Wow¬
ing for the drawbridge, through which
they'd pass into bay-like Newport
River, where some of the fish plants
are.
Many came to where I stood, or
near to me. and tied up there to take
on oil. Solidly built, and sca-scarred.
they were, with no style about them
“They come in like oyster-boats up
a Gulf Coast bayou.’’ 1 said to a man
standing near.
"Yes." said he.
"And always like this . . . streaming
inr
•'Not if the fishing has been good,”
'•iid he. "Then each would come in as
it got its catch. It’s rough outside. Too
rough for good fishing.’’
• • •
This menhaden -fishing business is a
great industry of the twin cities; the
herring-like fish being made into meal
for cattle feed, and fertilizer, and their
oil going into many things, lipsticks
included.
“It’s the best oil for lipsticks."
The industry brings from five to nine
million dollars to Beaufort and More-
head every year, depending on how
well the short lalc-fall and early winter
season goes.
Some arc local boats; mostly they
arc from everywhere, following the
menhaden northward from the Gulf.
"The Neptune," of Biloxi. Miss., was
at one wharf; tied up near her was
the "Nantucket," of Boston registry,
with an "S" on her stack.
"One of Harvey Smith’s boats." live
man said. "He has dozens of boats."
another man told me later, "and he has
processing plants here on the river,
and from Maine to Texas." Four or
five other companies have fish plants
here. too.
"The names on the boats don’t mean
much.” the man on the wharf said
when I mentioned the Boston registry.
"Her crew’s probably from the Smith "
I've never heard much of menhaden
fisheries in New England for pogics,
as I think they’re called up North} .
• • •
If Smith has a plant in Maine, then
I suppose there must be pogic fisheries
there. Yet I have read that though
dose to 100 years ago there was a big
catch of them from Boolhbay clear to
the coast of Canada, they suddenly dis¬
appeared north of Cape Cod for many
years, and then showed up so irregu¬
larly that all interest was lost in them
as a business venture.
• • •
Yet the very name menhaden is of
New England Indian origin, the die¬
ts
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