State

Swishing The Swash When big .steamboats made regular runs to Oeraeoke Island. Oeraeoke hod c«cn more vacationists hall о century ogo then it hos todoy — permonent guests, thot is. Picture shows crowd of Hotel Oeroeoke on Sundoy, July 30, 1899. a time, их», in spite of their extra- nautical cares with their charges. The "SS Oeroeoke" wos one ol the lorge ond polotiol steamers moking rcgulor trips between Wash¬ ington, N. C., ond Oeroeoke. At lower right is the steomer "Hottcros," onother lorge boot once used on the run. By Г It I! II .4 ALLISON The State of North Carolina now operates a ferry service between Atlantic and Oeraeoke to the hearty approval of Outer Bankers and their visitors. It was meet and right so to do. for it advances us almost to the place where we were sixty years ago, when Eastern North Carolina was even better served by water transportation. But in the old river port of Washington, for the first time since the Tuscarora Indians began to paddle their canoes made of hollowed cypress logs down the Pamticoagh, there is no boat line to Ocracokc. Vann Henry O’Neal, who for years left Fowle’s dock for Oeraeoke every Thursday night on board “Bessie Virginia," as regular as the stars in their courses, has sold his boat due to a decline in cargo since the state ferry commenced to run. The sub¬ stantial trade that has lasted for several centuries (no exaggeration) between Washington and the islands has been THE STATE. NOVEMBER 25. 1961 lost, but if present plans of several Washington men mature, even better service will be resumed soon. But whatever sort of maritime carrier is used, the glamor of bygone days can¬ not be revived. Back some years when Tarheels were self-propelled and did not have to carry their cars and boat trailers along wherever they went, there were ships with first-class passenger accom¬ modations as well as cargo space. Even thirty years ago, the voyage from Washington to Ocracokc was something special; not just a ride but a trip that needed to be experienced to be appreci¬ ated. No traveler on a trans-Atlantic luxury liner ever enjoyed his crossing more than the small boys and courting couples who sailed with Captains Ike O'Neal or Dave Williams on the “Rus¬ sell L.” or the "Preston." The mothers, fathers, or chaperones had just as good “Russell L." and “Preston” were big (it scented to small boys) fine Chesapeake Bay bugeyes — two masted sailing vessels that could really sail. They had auxiliary engines, but they were pri¬ marily sail boats, hence their glamor and beauty. The best place, when one could get there first, to enjoy the trip, was up forward just behind the bowsprit, where the lift of the bows to the swells could be felt most, and the swish of the water past the Stem reminded the small boys of Columbus or Leif Ericson. This was also the place favored by the court¬ ing couples, so the smaller fry were generally evicted by superior age or rank. There was a passenger cabin 'midships with tiers of bunks on either side, but it was used only in case of rain or by phlegmatic voyagers who had rather sleep. On deck was better, on one of the hatch covers maybe, lying wrapped up in a blanket, looking up at the towering masts and grey belly¬ ing canvas that swayed and blotted out the stars. The trip, albeit by wind power, was ifTT т **■’ - a -