Bartrams
Travels II
Iftoliinist is hospitably re¬
ceived by Indian Chief.
I mounted again, and followed the
trading path about a quarter of a mile
through the fields, then gently as¬
cended the green beds of the hills, and
entered the forests, being a point of a
chain of hills projecting into the green
vale or low lands of the rivers. This
forest continued about a mile, the sur¬
face of the land level but rough, being
covered with stones or fragments of
rocks, and very large, smooth pebbles
of various shapes and sizes, some of
ten or fifteen pounds weight: I ob¬
served on each side of the road many
vast heaps of these stones. Indian
graves undoubtedly.*
After I left the graves, the ample
vale soon offered on my right hand,
through the tall forest trees, charming
views, which exhibited a pleasing con¬
trast, immediately out of the gloomy
shades and scenes of death, into ex¬
pansive, lucid, green, flowery fields,
expanding between retiring hills, and
tufty eminences, the rapid Tanase glid¬
ing through, as a vast serpent rushing
after his prey.
My winding path now leads me again
over the green fields into the meadows,
sometimes visiting the decorated banks
of the river, as it meanders through
the meadows, or boldly sweeps along
the bases of the mountains, its surface
receiving the images reflected from the
flowery banks above.
Thus was my agreeable progress for
about fifteen miles, since I came upon
the sources of the Tanase, at the head
of this charming vale: in the evening
espying a human habitation at the foot
of the sloping green hills, beneath lofty
forests of the mountains on the left
hand, and at the same time observing a
man crossing the river from the op¬
posite shore in a canoe and coming
towards me, I waited his approach,
who hailing me, I answered I was for
Cowe; he entreated me very civilly to
*
Л(
tint place wu fought a bloody and de-
.itive battle between thcie Indian* and the Ca to¬
llmans. under the conduct of General Middleton,
-hen a great number of Cherokee warrior* were
dain. which shook their power, terrified and
humbled them, imomuch that they deserted mint
of their iettlemcnU in the low countries, and
betook tbemvel-es to the mountains as less ac¬
cessible to the regular forces of the white people.
14
call at his house, adding, that he would
presently come to me.
I was received and entertained here
until next day with the most perfect
civility. After I had dined, towards
evening, a company of Indian girls,
inhabitants of a village in the hills at
a small distance, called, having bas¬
kets of strawberries; and this man,
who kept here a trading house, being
married to a Cherokee woman of
family, was indulged to keep a stock
of cattle, and his helpmate being an
excellent house-wife, and a very agree¬
able good woman, treated us with
cream and strawberries.
Next morning, after breakfasting on
excellent coffee, relished with buc-
canned venison, hot corn cakes, excel¬
lent butter and cheese, sat forwards
again for Cowe, which was about fifteen
miles distance, keeping the trading
path which coursed through the low
lands between the hills and the river,
now spacious and well beaten by
travellers, but somewhat intricate to a
stranger, from the frequent collateral
roads falling into it from villages or
towns over the hills. After riding about
four miles mostly through fields and
plantations, the soil incredibly fertile,
arrived at the town of Echoc. consist¬
ing of many good houses, well in¬
habited. I passed through, and con¬
tinued three miles farther to Nucasse,
and three miles more brought me to
Whatoga. Riding through this large
town, the road carried me winding
about through their little plantations
of Corn, Beans, &c. up to the council-
house, which was a very large dome or
rotunda, situated on the top of an an¬
cient artificial mount, and here my
road terminated. All before me and
on every side, appeared little planta¬
tions of young Corn. Beans, &c. di¬
vided from each other by narrow strips
or borders of grass, which marked the
bounds of each one's property, their
habitation standing in the midst. Find¬
ing no common high road to lead me
through the town, I was now at a stand
how to proceed farther; when observ¬
ing an Indian man at the door of his
habitation, three or four hundred yards
distance from me, beckoning me to
come to him, I ventured to ride through
their lots, being careful to do no in¬
jury to the young plants, the rising
hopes of their labour and industry;
crossed a little grassy vale watered by
a silver stream, which gently undu¬
lated through; then ascended a green
hill to the house, where I was cheer¬
fully welcomed at the door, and led in
by the chief, giving the care of my
horse to two handsome youths, his
sons. During my continuance here,
about half an hour, I experienced the
most perfect and agreeable hospitality
conferred on me by these happy peo¬
ple; I mean happy in their disposi¬
tions, in their apprehensions of recti¬
tude with regard to our social or moral
conduct.
О
divine simplicity and truth,
friendship without fallacy or guile, hos¬
pitality disinterested, native, undefiled,
unmodifyed by artificial refinements!
THE STATE. SEPTEMBER 19. 1959
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