- Title
- State
-
-
- Date
- May 1985
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-
- Place
- ["North Carolina, United States"]
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State
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REMEMBER:
Vacation
Trips
Down
The
Outer
Banks
Getting there* certainly
was nut half the* fun — but
being there was heaven.
By JACK GOODWIN
PART I
Few of the many visitors crossing the
spectacular bridge over Oregon Inlet
and driving down the smooth, straight
highway that goes from tip to tip of
Cape Hatteras can have any inkling of
what a trip to Cape Hatteras was like
before the highways and bridge were
built. It was always an adventurous, and
sometimes a frightening, experience, if
one went by motorcar. We always tried
to be at Whalebone Station at Nags
Head early in the morning, for that was
where one left the hardsurfaced roads,
filled the gas tank, and partially deflated
the tires as preparation for driving
through the sand.
Mrs. Neva Midgett, Whalebone's
proprietor, would advise the grownups
on tide and road conditions while we
children had a soft drink and admired
the great whale skeleton that gave the
station its name. Then, with Mrs.
Midgettt waving goodbye and wishing
us luck, we would set off following the
tracks through the sand of those who
had gone before us.
The first destination was the Oregon
Inlet ferry. We always hoped that
"Tobc" Tillctt would be captaining the
THE STATE. MAY IMS
ferry as he was a family friend and
always had news of the Island. If wc
reached the ferry w ithout getting stuck
in the sand, we considered ourselves
lucky, for getting stuck was a regular
part of the trip.
The ferries were small and slow, but
wc didn't care as long as they got us
across the inlet. Sometimes the Inlet
was rough, but we always made it
across without mishap. Once, the ferry
had departed just a few minutes before
we got to the Inlet, but "Tobc" recog¬
nized us. turned the ferry around, and
came back for us — a mark of signal
honor.
From the south side of the Inlet, if the
ocean tide was ebbing, we would some¬
times drive down the Wash — the
(usually) hard-packed sand on the
occanfront where the great waves had
been breaking a short time before. Cars
could go relatively fast on the Wash and
there was less danger of getting stuck
than when driving through the soft dry
sand of the upper beach, but there was
always the danger of quicksand. This
quicksand was not the type that swal¬
lowed one up as pictured so often in
Hollywood movies, but was a deceptive
looking mixture of soft sand and water
that usually indicated the site of a
buried shipw'reck in which a car would
sink slowly, but steadily.
We usually went from our home in
Norfolk. Virginia, to Cape Hatteras
several times a year, and about once a
year we would get caught in the quick¬
sand on the Wash, often as the tide was
turning. It was always a frightening ex¬
perience. Wc could choose to try to get
out of the car and make it to hard sand
or else to sit in the car as it slowly sank
into the sand. Even though wc knew
that the Coast Guard would doubtless
come to our rescue, there was always a
gnawing doubt in the back of our minds
that this might be the one time when the
Coast Guard wouldn't appear.
But appear they always did. All the
Coast Guard stations along the length
of the island had continuously manned