NC STATE UNIVERSITY
Horticulture Information Leaflet 8207
11/02
College of Agriculture & Life Sciences
Department of Horticultural Science
GROWING BLUEBERRIES IN THE HOME GARDEN
Charles M. Mainland and William O. Cline
Extension Horticultural Specialists
Distributed in furtherance
of the Acts of Congress
of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Employment and program
opportunities are offered to
all people regardless of
race, color, national origin,
sex, age, or disability.
North Carolina State University,
North Carolina A&T State
University, U.S. Department
of Agriculture, and local
governments cooperating.
Blueberries can be grown in home gardens
anywhere in North Carolina if the right
species and proper soil modifications are
used. Blueberries are typically used in the
landscape as hedges for screening
puiposes, but they can also be used in
cluster plantings, or as single specimen
plants. Blueberries are an ideal year round
addition to the landscape. They have
delicate white or pink flowers in the
spring, the summer fruit has an attractive
sky blue color, and the fall foliage adds
great red and yellow colors to the
landscape. In addition, blueberry plants
lend themselves to the ‘organic’ approach
of gardening, since pesticides are rarely
needed in home garden plantings.
Soil pH - Blueberries require a lower pH
than many other small fruit crops. Before
planting, take a soil test. Apply wettable
sulfur (90% S) if pH is above 5.3 for
rabbiteye blueberries or 5.0 for highbush
blueberries. Use 1.0 pound (2.5 cups) per
1 00 square feet on sandy soils to lower pH
by 1 unit (for instance, from 6.0 to 5.0).
Apply 2.0 pounds per 100 square feet for
the same amount of pH lowering on
heavier soils containing silt, clay or more
than 2% organic matter. Try to achieve a
pH of around 4.8; too much reduction can
be detrimental to bush growth. Apply
sulfur at least 3-4 months before planting,
and take another soil test before planting.
If pH is still above the acceptable range,
additional sulfur can be applied. If you
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must plant without an initial soil test, mix 1
cubic foot of peat moss with an equal
amount of sand. On a heavy clay soil or a
soil that sometimes remains wet, put the
peat-sand mixture on the soil surface. If
you are certain the soil has good internal
drainage, part of the peat-sand mixture can
go in a hole or furrow several inches
below the soil surface. However, leave
enough of the peat-sand mixture to form a
mound (single plant) or ridge (row of
plants) at least 6 inches above the
surrounding soil surface (Figure 1). The
mound or ridge will insure against damage
from excess water, however, with this
planting method, water thoroughly 2 to 3
times per week during dry periods,
because the raised peat-sand mix will dry
out quickly.
Figure 1 . Blueberry plant set in peat sand mixture.
Organic Additions - If the soil contains
less than 2% organic matter (OM on soil
test report) incorporating peat moss or
well-decayed pine sawdust or bark will
improve plant survival and growth.
Apply 3 to 4 inches of the organic material