Extension gardener : piedmont

              Empowering
gardeners.
Providing
garden
solutions.
Pruning roses
in this issue
P I E D M O N T
N E W S
Extending the
Season
Starting Vegetable
Transplants
Watch out for
Rose Rosette
Landscaping for
Wildlife
S T A T E
N E W S
Pruning Roses
‘Oakleaf’ Holly
Become an
Extension Master
Gardener
Mushrooms
LED Lights:
Growing into the
Future
Hybrid roses are among the most challenging
garden plants to grow. The rewards, how-ever,
are beyond description. One of the
most critical tasks to keeping these plants healthy
is winter pruning.
Prune your roses when the buds begin to swell.
Near the coast this usually occurs by mid-Febru-ary,
while in the piedmont and mountains this is
usually early to mid-March.
Winter pruning is not as difficult as you may
think. First, round up your supplies: sharp prun-ing
shears, lopping shears, gardening gloves, and
first aid kit. Then follow these tips for pruning
success:
• Remove any dead, diseased, or otherwise
weak and unhealthy wood.
• Prune to open the center of the plant. This
allows for good air flow and can help reduce
disease problems.
• Where canes cross or touch, remove either
the weaker cane or the one that exhibits an
undesirable growing position.
• Based on size and growing position, make
your final choices for this year’s canes. Retain
canes that are at least pencil-sized in diam-eter.
For more, smaller flowers, retain six to
eight canes. For fewer, larger, specimen-type
flowers, retain four to five canes. Prune these
canes back to 12 to 15 inches. Cut about
half an inch above an outward-facing bud.
Keep in mind that most species of old-fash-ioned
roses only bloom once a year. They do not
require the severe structural pruning of Hybrid
Teas and Floribundas. Prune them mainly to
maintain a desirable shape. Prune miniature roses
for good plant shape. While deadheading minis
can be tedious, it can ensure a plentiful supply of
flowers almost all summer long.
All rose types require regular care to thrive.
These tips will help you get your roses off to a
strong start this season.
• When new leaves begin to emerge, begin
irrigating your roses. Roses need around 1
inch of water per week. Use a soaker hose
in your rose garden to conserve water and
minimize leaf diseases.
• Begin your fertilization program in spring.
Fertilize based on soil test results. Boxes for
collecting soil samples and instructions for
submission are available from your local
Cooperative Extension office.
• If a soil test is not performed, use a com-plete
fertilizer (one that contains nitrogen,
phosphorus, and potassium), such as 5-10-5,
4-8-4, or 4-8-6. Apply fertilizer at the rate of
3 pounds per 100 square feet. This is about
¼ cup of dry fertilizer per plant. Spread the
fertilizer evenly around the plant and scratch
it into the soil surface.
Regular care and sound pruning practices such
as those outlined above will be rewarded with
shapely, healthy plants and an abundance of beau-tiful,
fragrant flowers. Enjoy.
— Randy Fulk
Gardener Extension
NC STATE UNIVERSITY NORTH CAROLINA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION Winter 2013
Extension
Gardener
In North Carolina, we are lucky to have three growing seasons: spring, summer, and fall. What’s more, there are a number of techniques you can use to extend a crop’s growing season beyond its normal time limits, allowing food to be grown all year long. For summer crops, season extension can increase the growing season into the winter or allow it to start earlier in spring. Season extension can also allow cool-sea­son crops to be grown into the heat of summer, in addition to the cooler spring and fall months.
Season extension can be used to protect plants from adverse weather conditions, allowing them to grow bigger, mature more quickly, and produce higher-quality crops than those grown traditionally. There are several ways to create season extension. Black plastic mulches can be used to heat soil sooner in the spring, and white plastic mulches can be used to cool soil in the summer heat. Shade cloths can be used to create a cool microclimate and prevent heat-sensitive plants, like spinach, from bolting in summer.
Floating row covers act like giant blankets for plants. Row covers are used to protect crops from late spring frosts and freezes. Depending on the weight of the cover, it can provide up to 14 degrees’ worth of insulation. Low tunnels made of small hoops with row covers or plastic covering are useful for protecting tender trans­plants, such as tomatoes and peppers, without putting the weight of the cover on the plant.
High tunnels, hoop houses, and cold frames are all types of unheated greenhouses that can protect crops from damaging weather condi­tions, enabling farmers and gardeners to grow cold-sensitive crops outside their normal season. For example, a high tunnel can give a farmer or gardener a four- to six-week jump on field-grown tomatoes and allow the farm to extend the season four to six weeks later than normal.
An example of season extension in commer­cial agriculture can be seen at the Piedmont Re­search Station (www.ncagr.gov/research/prs.htm) in Rowan County, where researchers are grow­ing strawberries under high tunnels to sell at Thanksgiving and Christmas. What’s better than North Carolina strawberries in your Thanksgiv­ing dessert? To learn more about season exten­sion, go to http://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/growingsmallfarms-seasonextension/ or contact your local county Extension agent.
— Amy Lynn Albertson
Smart Gardening — Extending the gardening season
Starting vegetable plants at home is fun and easy. The first step is to determine your an­ticipated garden planting date and the number of weeks required to produce the transplants for each crop. These facts will determine the ap­propriate time to start seeds. Do not start them too early.
You can use cell packs, flats, or small flow­erpots to start seed. Also, various types of sturdy food containers can be cleaned, punched with drainage holes, and recycled into seed trays. If reusing old pots or flats, clean and soak them in a solution of 1 part household bleach to 10 parts water for 1 to 2 minutes. After soaking, rinse well. Compressed peat pellets and containers are also available. These can be planted directly into the garden, and they work well for plants that do not like to be transplanted.
Sterile potting media is critical to reduce losses to damping off. There are many commer­cial soilless transplant mixes available. Most are combinations of peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, and usually some fertilizer. These mixes are sterile and free of pathogens, insects, and weeds. Premoisten the mix, and plant seeds in contain­ers at recommended depths (usually twice the diameter of the seed).
Keep the seeds moist and warm until germi­nation. Spray the media with water as needed to avoid overwatering. Sealing containers in a clear plastic bag or providing a clear covering that does not touch the surface will help keep the media moist.
Once seedlings emerge, remove the covering and place the containers in a sunny, south-facing window or 4 to 6 inches below two fluorescent bulbs, and keep the seedlings moist. Room tem­peratures of 60°F to 70°F are ideal. Fertilize with soluble fertilizers as directed on the package. Harden off transplants by gradually increasing exposure to lower temperatures and increased sunlight two weeks before setting in the garden. For more information on starting transplants at home, visit http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-8104.html.
— Colleen Church
Food Production — Starting vegetable transplants indoors
Extension essential in creation, operation of community garden
With our current economy, many North Carolina residents are looking for ways to save money. A trend seen across the state is the establishment of community gardens, which allow people to grow their own food, thereby cutting spending on groceries.
The Cub Creek Commu­nity Garden was established in 2011 as a coordinated effort be­tween the Town of Wilkesboro, the Wilkes County Extension Master Gardener volunteers, and the Wilkes County Health Department. Forty-five residents rented garden plots and were supplied with plants, tools, and pesticides. The Wil­kes County Extension Master Gardener volunteers advised participants on proper garden maintenance, and the Wilkes County Extension Service sent participants weekly emails about how to effectively man­age garden pests and problems.
To date, more than 2,000 pounds of produce have been harvested from the Cub Creek Community Garden. The Wil­kes County Extension Master Gardener volunteers have donated more than 300 pounds of produce from their demon­stration garden.
— Bill Hanlin
Extension ShowcaseRegional News of the Piedmont
Tips
Edibles
• Fruit trees, grapes, and berries
should be planted starting in
February when the ground is not
frozen.
• Pruning and training of dormant
fruit and nut trees, grapevines,
and berry plants should begin as
late in the winter as possible, to
reduce chances of winter injury.
• Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage,
lettuce, and cauliflower inside
in trays in late January to have
transplants ready for March.
• Plant seed potatoes, asparagus
crowns, and seeds of root veg-etables,
spinach, and garden peas
into the garden in February.
Ornamentals
• Fertilize trees and shrubs in
February or March before new
growth begins. Plant roots will
absorb nutrients when the soil
temperature is above 40°F.
• Trees, shrubs, and ground cov-ers
can be planted throughout
winter as long as the ground is
not frozen.
• Prune dormant broadleaf and
narrow leaf evergreen shrubs if
needed in February or March.
Lawns
• In February, fertilize fescue
lawns using a complete N-P-K
turf-grade fertilizer that provides
1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 square
feet, or follow soil test results. If
brown patch has been a problem,
avoid this fertilizer application.
• The best time to apply herbi-cides
is February and March. A
preemergent herbicide should
be applied for summer an-nual
weeds including crabgrass.
Postemergence herbicides can be
sprayed to control wild garlic,
winter annuals, and cool-season
perennial broadleaf weeds.
— Kathryn Holmes
Rose rosette has been known in the United
States since the 1940s. However, in the
last two years this fatal rose disease has become
more prevalent in North Carolina.
All rose varieties appear to be susceptible,
and they usually die within one to two years of
infection. Infected
plants exhibit the
following symp-toms:
• Rapid stem
elongation
• Small, distorted
leaf growth
• Thickened
stems
• Leaf reddening
• Excessive thorn production
• Lateral growth thicker than parent rose
cane
Rose rosette is a virus vectored by eriophyid
mites (Phyllocoptes fructiphillus). Unlike other
mites, the tiny eriophyid mite has only four
legs. They can be found on new growth, buds,
and at the base of leaf petioles with the aid of
a 20x hand lens. Eriophyid mites move to new
hosts via pruning activities and drifting air cur-rents.
Grafting is another source of infection.
Sterilizing tools, spacing roses so they do
not touch, and removing infected plants are
the primary control strategies. The wild multi-flora
rose is the most
vulnerable to infection
and should be removed
around cultivated
roses.
Applying pes-ticides
to control
eriophyid mites is
unlikely to stop the
spread of this disease
and is only recom-mended
for roses grow-ing
adjacent to an infected plant. Infected plants
should be removed as soon as they are detected.
Remaining roses should be sprayed every two
weeks from April to October with abamectin or
horticultural oil. Efficacy depends on coverage,
timely application, and degree of infestation.
— Aimee Rankin
&Tasks
North Carolina is blessed with a tremendous
diversity of native wildlife: more than
17,000 species of animals, everything from bugs
to mammals, both terrestrial and aquatic.
So with all these creatures calling North
Carolina home, where are they, and why don’t
we see more of them? Many of these creatures
live under leaf litter or fallen logs, or between
pebbles and rocks in our forests and streams.
Unfortunately, development degrades their
natural habitats, leaving all types of organisms
homeless. Researchers predict an additional loss
of 5.5 million forested acres in North Carolina
by 2040, which is that much less land to sup-port
wildlife.
In addition to development, wildlife is also
affected by how landscapes are managed. For
example, our preference for large, continuous
lawns deters many wildlife species. If we could
connect more natural areas in our neighbor-hoods
from yard to yard, wildlife would have
a corridor of habitat and be less likely to enter
home landscapes for shelter.
Wildlife have the same basic needs that
people do: food, water, and shelter. To craft a
home landscape that benefits wildlife, follow
these 10 guidelines:
1. Reduce lawns and add groundcovers or
islands of vegetation.
2. Layer plants by planting trees, shrubs, peren-nials,
and groundcovers of various heights.
3. Leave dead trees for feeding and nesting.
4. Provide water sources.
5. Plant native vegetation.
6. Provide bird or bat houses and bird feeders.
7. Remove aggressive non-native plants, be-cause
these do not provide essential nutrients
for wildlife.
8. Manage pets.
9. Manage pesticide use by reducing levels of
pesticide used, limiting applications to spot
treatments, and encouraging beneficial spe-cies
of insects.
10. Encourage neighbors to design wild areas on
adjacent property lines.
— Wendi Hartup
Environmental Stewardship — Landscaping for wildlife
Pest Alert — Watch out for rose rosette
James W. Amrine Jr., West Virginia Univ., Bugwood.org
The ‘Oakleaf’ holly is one of the most exciting recent introduc­tions into the world of hollies. One of five different varieties in­troduced as the “red hollies” in the mid-1990s, ‘Oakleaf’ holly gets its name from the shape of the plant’s leaf, which resembles that of our native scarlet oak. This evergreen beauty was a chance seedling from the well-known holly variety ‘Mary Nell’.
The leaves of ‘Oakleaf’ maintain an attractive medium green color with a lighter-colored leaf edge throughout the year. Plants ex­hibit a pyramidal growth habit, reaching heights of 14 feet or more, and spread up to 8 feet across. Hardy in zones 6 to 9, the ‘Oakleaf’ holly is an ideal choice for evergreen hedges or planting en masse for screening purposes. This showstopper is attractive enough to place in your garden as a specimen plant. Grow in full sun or in very light shade and well-drained soil. — John Vining
www.ces.ncsu.edu
Extension Gardener provides timely, research-based horticultural information. We publish four issues per year. Send comments about Extension Gardener to:
Editor and Team Leader
Lucy Bradley, Ph.D., Extension Specialist, Urban Horticulture
Box 7609, NC State University
Raleigh, NC 27695-7609
Managing Editor: Charlotte Glen
Content Editor: David Goforth
Regional Editors, Coastal Plain and Sandhills: Bob Filbrun, Shawn Banks
Regional Editor, Piedmont: Amanda Taylor
Regional Editor, Mountains and Foothills: Donna Teasley
Production Editor and Designer:
Brent Winter
The use of brand names does not imply endorsement by N.C. Cooperative Extension nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned.
Distributed in furtherance of the acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. North Carolina State University and North Carolina A&T State University commit themselves to positive action to secure equal opportunity regardless of race, color, creed, national origin, religion, sex, age, veteran status, or disability. In addition, the two Universities welcome all persons without regard to sexual orientation. North Carolina State University, North Carolina A&T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and local governments cooperating.
©North Carolina Cooperative Extension. Extension Gardener may not be reproduced without written permission. Any news media using sections of the newsletter should credit “Extension Gardener, North Carolina Cooperative Extension.”
13-CALS-3520—1/13
http://extensiongardener.ncsu.edu
Mushroom-growing kits are a popu­lar way for beginners to get started growing mushrooms. Kits are readily available and tend to have moderate to good success rates. In North Carolina, shiitake seems to be the most popular mushroom. However, growers are also having success with oyster, maitake, and lion’s mane mushrooms, to name a few.
Mushroom kits start at around $13, though more elaborate kits can cost in excess of $100. A word of caution for beginners: It is important to start with smaller kits. These come with the essentials — spawn plugs, plug wax, and basic instructions. As the grower, you have to supply the wood (oak is preferred) and manual labor to inoculate the logs. When instructions are properly followed, you can expect mushrooms in six to 12 months, and the logs can last up to 10 years. — Danelle Cutting
Extension
Gardener
Showstopper — ‘Oakleaf’ holly
Around the State
Edibles — Mushrooms
Since its debut in the 1970s, the light-emitting diode (LED) has morphed from a futuristic device to a fixture of everyday life. Described as solid-state light­ing, today’s LED more closely resembles a computer chip than a light bulb.
The impact of LED lighting on horti­culture began in 1991, when researchers at the University of Wisconsin suggested that LEDs could be used to grow plants. These findings inspired NASA to develop LED-lit growth chambers as prototypes for crop production on Mars.
When used to provide artificial lighting for plants grown indoors, LED lights have many benefits. In addition to more closely matching the wavelengths most utilized by plants, LED lights also radiate very little heat. This allows them to be placed very close to plant leaves.
The environmental benefits of LED lights are impressive. According to Energy
Sustainability — LED lights: Growing into the futureStar, LEDs are 20 times more efficient than incandescent bulbs, five times more efficient than fluorescents, and have bright­ness equal to or greater than other lighting technologies. In addition, they provide constant output for more than 25,000 hours, supply excellent color quality, light immediately upon start-up, do not flicker, and do not draw power when off. Finally, the LED device does not contain mercury or other hazardous materials that require special disposal. — Bob Filbrun
H
elping You GrowBecome an Extension Master GardenerExtension’s Master Gardener Program is designed to enhance public education in horticulture. Under the guidance of Extension agents, participants complete a 40-hour training course in horticulture. In exchange for their training, Master Gardeners work through their Extension o  ce to complete a 40-hour volunteer intern-ship. Volunteer opportunities include answering garden-ing questions, developing exhibits, working with com-munity and demonstration gardens, and assisting with school gardening projects. To   nd out more about the Extension Master Gardener program in your area, contact your local Extension center or visit www.ncstategardening.org.— Katy Shook
Charlotte Glen
Ilex × ‘Conaf’ PP 9487